王大泉：城市记忆和人文脉络都内化后的味道

“取好火腿连皮切大方块，用蜜酒煨及烂，最佳……余在尹文端公苏州公馆吃过一次，其香隔户便至，甘鲜异常,此后不能再遇此尤物矣。 ”——袁枚于《随园食单》中介绍蜜汁火方 “Cut the ham with its casing into chunks and simmer them with mead until they are tender... I ate once in Yin Jishan’s residence in Suzhou. The dish tasted sweet and fresh, whose aroma could be sensed from neighbourhood. After that, I never encounter such a scrumptious dish again.”An introduction of the Braised Ham in Honey Sauce from the book，《The Way of Eating :Yuan Mei’s Manual of Gastronomy》

“取好火腿连皮切大方块，用蜜酒煨及烂，最佳……余在尹文端公苏州公馆吃过一次，其香隔户便至，甘鲜异常,此后不能再遇此尤物矣。 ”——袁枚于《随园食单》中介绍蜜汁火方

“Cut the ham with its casing into chunks and simmer them with mead until they are tender... I ate once in Yin Jishan’s residence in Suzhou. The dish tasted sweet and fresh, whose aroma could be sensed from neighbourhood. After that, I never encounter such a scrumptious dish again.”An introduction of the Braised Ham in Honey Sauce from the book，《The Way of Eating :Yuan Mei’s Manual of Gastronomy》

2022年3月，老牌米其林餐厅新店南麓·荟馆结束跨年疫情蛰伏，陆家嘴国金中心商场通明的商铺间，半只灯笼被薄雾所隐，玉色透光，入口浮动。TANZO天作王大泉历时5个月，完成内部空间设计。

Nanlu Huiguan, a new location of an established Michelin restaurant, ended its hibernation during pandemic in March, 2022. Among the brightly lit shops in Shanghai International Financial Center mall, the entrance of the restaurant gives off soft yellow light through a scaled-up lantern shaped in a half circle. Wang Daquan, the chief designer of TANZO Space Design, is responsible for the interior design of the restaurant, which took him five months to complete the project.

“我对杭州的印象是一汪水，在山野之间精致了，我对南麓的想法也是一片水面和低调的谦逊，飘曳其间，華香扑鼻。一种回归乡村的质朴与陶醉。”——设计师王大泉

“My impression of Hangzhou is that the city likes a pool of water, a delicate one among mountains and plains. The same idea goes to the design for Nanlu, from which a sense of tranquility and humility emanates. When diners walk in the restaurant, the aroma greets their nose, immersing them in a sense of rustic simplicity.”——Wang Daquan

12年前，上海巨鹿路南麓·浙里开业，到四川北路店米其林摘星，这家深谙江浙风味的地道杭帮菜在沪上食肆风云中频掀浪潮。

Nanlu Zheli opened for business on Julu Road in Shanghai 12 years ago. Later, it opened a second location on North Sichuan Road and was awarded as a Michelin-starred restaurant. This restaurant which serves authentic Hangzhou dishes rode the waves frequently in the Shanghai dining industry.

承袭选材和服务的高标准，南麓·荟馆主厨团队来自杭州名店湖滨28和解香楼，新店深入浙江地方志的毛细血管，聚合了吴越人家的滋味和山水氤氲风雅——热灶上桌，再续新事。

Inheriting the high standard of ingredient selection and service, the chef team of Nanlu Huiguan comes from Hubin 28 and Jie Xiang Lou, famous local restaurants in Hangzhou. By exploring the local chronicles of Jiangsu and Zhejiang area deeply, the dishes served in the restaurant are real local flavors and the atmosphere in the restaurant resonates with a typical elegance of the landscape in that area - hot dishes are served, and new stories are told.

再造乡土

追溯与回归

Recreating a feeling for the past

Tracing back and returning to the origins

上海与杭州，自古难分。

Shanghai and Hangzhou have been inseparable since ancient times.

交锋和依存之间，南麓·荟馆的文化根系由此而生。上海是含混的，在跌宕城记中见其大也见其失；杭州恰如西湖和运河并置，无论多少喧嚣商流汇入其中，属于士大夫和自然的风烟俱净是它恒定的底色。

The cultural root of Nanlu Huiguan stems from the confrontation and interdependency of the two cities. Shanghai has an ambiguous vibe with the ups and downs of the city history. While the city vibe of Hangzhou resembles the juxtaposition of the West Lake and the canal that no matter how busy the river transport of business is, the tranquility and clearness of the scenery remain unchanged.

于是，设计师沿着城市脉络向传统追溯，用民艺和自然寻找着南麓·荟馆的现代性表达——林院生夜色，西廊上纱灯。空间框起村落、水上和月下的风景。就像地方菜系总会有种味觉固执，设计首先确信品牌基因存于真正的自然和生活，继而敢于诉诸简朴、真切的表达。

Bearing these in mind, the designer traces back to the traditions along the urban context, and pursues modern expressions in the design of Nanlu Huiguan by taking advantage of folk art and nature - “As darkness falls, the gauze lanterns are lit up in the west corridor of the yard in a forest.” (A verse from a Chinese poem). The space frames the scenery of the village, the water and the moonlight. The designer presents the space in an austere and sincere way by confirming first and foremost that the brand gene originates from nature and real life, just like people insisting that regional cuisines have their certain flavors.

万千旅人无论故乡何在，在西湖水面前都能放松下来，产生一种由衷的陪伴和眷恋，这种超越了地理范畴的故乡情节，并不囿于上海或杭州。来自中国人精神先验里的亲近，让空间体验接近一次对集体记忆和故乡的回归。

Travelers, no matter where their hometown is, can unwind themselves in front of the West Lake and have a kind of heartfelt companionship and attachment. It is not just in Shanghai or Hangzhou that this kind of homesickness which transcends geographical scope occurs. The closeness, being a transcendental feeling of Chinese people, enables the spacial experience to become a return to a collective memory and origins.

差异化场景

一重风月一重烟火

Differentiated scenarios

A fusion of natural beauty and daily life

制灯笼时竹篾粗细因灯而定，细如发，粗似箸——南麓·荟馆盈门，灯笼放大至高3.96m、径3.1m，围住一张六人圆桌，委婉优柔的灯光如月光透进，绕行入内，烟火洞开。

When lanterns are made, the thickness of bamboo strips is determined by the size of lanterns, which can be as thin as hair and as thick as chopsticks. At the entrance of Nanlu Huiguan, the lantern is scaled up to 3.96 meters in height and 3.1 meters in diameter, surrounding a round table of six people. The soft light resembles moonlight, shining through the lantern. When you detour inside, the smell of cooking strikes you.

弧形立面和屋面流畅连贯地包覆空间，透光树脂板以铜条做骨架，和缓起伏勾出山峦院落，寥寥数语将微醺低语的客人隔入各自山门。垂吊灯头以纸糊面，光线影影绰绰散落，如“月被薄雾所隐”，设计将人们对灯光、座位、食物的直接直觉稍微遮蔽了，代之以隐含朦胧的自然意喻，这种觉知上的留白时刻等待落座者情绪的涌入。

The cambered walls and roof cover the whole space smoothly. Translucent resin plates framed by copper strips partition the space, which likes microcosmic courtyards among mountain ranges, allowing tipsy diners to whisper and enjoy meals in separated areas. Covered with paper, the lampshade of floor lamps scatters the light dimly, resembling a natural scene that“the moon is blocked by mist.” By creating a sense of blurred beauty, the space design slightly interferes with people’s intuitive feelings for light, seat and food, aiming to leave a space for diners themselves to place emotions and experience the surroundings.

与入口相对，茶吧LED灯箱投映橘红色落日；弘一法师手书「华香扑鼻」陷地浮雕匾悬于木墙；手工黄铜包裹弧形吧台，整个场景退入蚀刻般的墨金色中。早在南宋，吴自牧已在《梦梁录》中惊叹杭城商贾市井繁华：“自和宁门杈子外至观桥下，无一家不买卖者”。如今，茶档从农耕岁月中走来登上现代舞台，“福田”落成饰面上带有新造型主义印记的二维线条，循环播放城市变幻的天光，以其温情和魔幻抚摸观看者绵延的思绪。

Opposite the entrance, the LED light box above the tea bar shines in orange, the color of sunset; a relief plaque on which Master Hongyi writes “Hua Xiang Pu Bi”(Chinese characters meaning that the aroma greets the nose) hangs on the wooden wall; a curve-shaped bar is wrapped in handmade brass. It seems that the whole setting is etched in gold ink. As early as the Southern Song Dynasty, Wu Zimu wrote in his book Menglianglu that he marveled at the flourishing business in Hangzhou, “From Hening gate to Guan bridge, every single shop along the way runs business.” Nowadays, the tea stalls have stepped onto the modern stage from the agricultural age. “Futian” becomes two-dimensional lines with a style of neoplasticism on the LED light box which changes its colors, comforting viewers’ endless thoughts in a warm and magic way.

走向人心

于无限放大的细节中

Catering to the need of people

From the details of design

食物和任何一种艺术一样，最终都是要走向人心的，南麓也不例外，有空间可以合力，往往四两拨千斤。无论在空间的哪一处，质感和情绪始终串联在同一条脉络上，那是一种把城市记忆和人文脉络都内化后的味道：自在漂浮、丰盈质朴、微醺荡漾。

Like any kind of art, food caters to people’s need ultimately. Nanlu is no exception, but it can achieve this goal with less effort by using the space as a leverage. No matter where you are in the space, the textures and vibes are always on the same page, which is a sense coming after the internalization of urban memory and cultural context: the space is rich in details but emanates a rustic feeling; people feel tipsy and at ease in it.

灯笼的尺度和材质经过反复调试，以获得最佳透光效果，与之相匹配的，室内灯光无限贴近自然，使天光、月光、烛光等等光的感知合一，形成感知上远大于室内的自然观想。山野植物挺修丰茂，恰到好处地自在生长。无论是竹、纸、木头、金砖亦或者艺术漆面，丰富而频频变化的质感折射出大量情绪颗粒，它们混合着光线不断穿透、投影、游走，搅动起勃勃生机。

The size and material of the lantern have been adjusted repeatedly so as to obtain the best transmission of light. Matching it, the indoor lighting is infinitely close to natural light, so that the perception of daylight, moonlight, candlelight and other light sources reaches a balance, allowing diners to feel out in nature rather than indoors. Wild plants grow freely, being tall and lush. From bamboo, paper, and wood to gold bricks and artistic paint, rich textures in the space form a vibe resonating with emotions, which injects a sense of vitality into the space while constantly penetrating, projecting and floating with light.

此外，设计事无巨细地重新考量家具的尺度和舒适性并做出本土化改良；考究的餐具款式及印花匆匆闪现久远的殖民色彩；无论是放大的灯笼、壁炉，还是抽象进百平米的村落山峦，尺度在夸张的收放中，心也可以随之穿行于幽微和广阔，自在畅快。

In addition, the designer carefully reconsiders the size and comfort of the furniture and makes localization improvements. The European style and prints of tableware remind people of the old days. In the space, whether it is the scaled-up lantern and fireplace or the scaled-down courtyards, people can feel carefree and leisurely while walking through them.

沪上餐厅以酒见长者众多，南麓·荟馆则为黄酒开席，这既是品牌的经营策略，也是空间和产品的文化相承。

There are many restaurants serving good wine in Shanghai, while Nanlu Huiguan serves yellow rice wine (native to Zhejiang province). This is not only a brand strategy, but also demonstrates cultural inheritance through the space and products.

南麓·荟馆便是如此，在潮流浮沉最是汹涌的堤岸，守着由一间小馆子迁延流转而来的拙朴和赤诚，如同守住食材和火候。空间亦从传统中生长出来，扎根于城市和人的历史语境中，它们混合而成的记忆和情感，将使我们的故乡和故乡的味道永不陷落。

Situated in Shanghai where business and restaurants are prosperous，Nanlu Huiguan has been staying true to rusticity and sincerity inherited from the past when it was a small restaurant. Meanwhile, the ingredient selection and tastes of food have always been under quality control. The space emerges out of tradition and takes root in the historical context of the city and people. The memories and emotions aroused in the space will make our hometown and its taste never fade away.